Renosterveld is a little known and critically endangered vegetation type. There is only 5% remaining, with many plants on the verge of extinction. Unlike fynbos, Renosterveld needs fertile soils which occur on flat plains, which are also ideally suited for farming and urban development. As a result, only a few fragmented pockets remain, typically rocky outcrops or wetlands commercially unavailable.
The ugly sister of fynbos
One can be forgiven for overlooking this vegetation type as it can look quite dull and scrubby from the outside. It is devoid of the showy proteas and ericas occurring in fynbos, and for this reason, has been nicknamed ‘the ugly sister of fynbos’. But, of course, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Renosterveld is so incredibly rich and diverse, as seen in the first and only field guide recently published by Dr Odette Curtis: ‘Renosterveld of The Overberg’. It is known for its bounty of bulbs that burst into life in spring.
Joostenberg is an ancient farming area and has been ploughed for over 250 years. Unfortunately, this means we have no pristine regions left. Still, in line with our organic winemaking philosophy, we focus on reintroducing and restoring the natural vegetation.
Remove the grass and replace it with Rynosterveld
The returning soldiers from the war had been exposed to the green rolling hills of Europe and aspired to the ‘English Country Garden Look’. As a result, we inherited a large lawn area that is not water-wise and requires maintenance. In the gardens, we are slowly taking up this grass and replacing it with endemic Renosterveld. We fall in the Swartland shale and granite Renosterveld area, and just as the terroir determines the wines, it also supports a particular kind of vegetation.
To create a species list and with the help of the nature app ‘iNaturalist’, we are currently identifying and mapping plants on nearby reference sites within a 10km radius of the farm. This requires research and time in the field, and we have to date found a few rare, red-listed species. In addition, replantings are challenging as these are not the kinds of plants you generally buy at nurseries. To this end, we are collecting seeds and taking cuttings for propagation.
It is also important not to strip away everything that has gone before as it is part of the layers of history and part of our story. The heritage roses, for example, represent and remind us of the previous generation.
Time makes room for what is needed
Time influences what we do and how we see things. What our needs are, determine our priorities. When the first farmers settled on the farm and planted trees in the wetland, they desperately needed wood and thought of survival, not conservation. Clearing the alien poplars currently soaking up and choking the natural wetland is an ongoing project. Joostenberg lies on the urban edge, which means we are always threatened by encroaching development. Getting neighbours educated and involved is important and challenging as one cannot work in an isolated capsule. The ultimate aim is to join the fragmented pieces with ‘corridors’ to sustain insects and birdlife. These nature strips are very beneficial to farmers, as the natural balance is restored, which helps control diseases and makes farming more sustainable.
Every little bit we do is better than doing nothing
As custodians of Joostenberg, we have many challenges. As a private landowner, assistance and information are difficult to find and can sometimes be overwhelming when one is also trying to farm and make a living. However, every little bit we do is better than doing nothing. We aim to try and protect what is left, restore what we can and hopefully hand the land over to the next generation in better condition than we inherited it.
Go home, open your eyes, scour the verges of the road, edges of parks and golf courses; you may be surprised what you will find; a kalkoentjie, a snotblom, a moederkappie or a pop rosie. The wonders of nature are on your doorstep.
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Growing up on a farm with names like “plakkie”, “bokhorinkies”, doll’s rose, “kalkoentjie” and “koekemakranka”, tickled my love and interest in these endemic plants. These wildflowers are unique and diverse and grow in areas with wet winters and hot, dry summers. The Western Cape is famous for its beautiful wildflowers, occurring from Vanrhynsdorp all along the coast of the Cape Peninsula and eastwards to Port Elizabeth. They are characterised by an enormous diversity of species from plant families like Rutaceae (buchu), Proteaceae (Proteas), Asteraceae (Felicias), and Iridaceae (Gladiolus).
These plant families fall within the Fynbos Biome of the Cape Floristic Region, and is the richest plant region on earth. The Fynbos Biome can be broken down into four categories.
Fynbos
Renosterveld
Strandveld
Succulent Karoo
Fynbos
Fynbos
Fynbos occurs typically in the mountains and grows in nutrient-poor and sandy soil. Fynbos prefers acidic soil. Proteas, Ericas, Restios are part of the proper Cape fynbos plant growth. Fynbos is normally hard leafed, dense growth and with trees virtually absent.
Fire is a critical part of the plant’s life cycle. It rejuvenates old and overgrown vegetation, and some plant species only grow and flower after a fire. In addition, the smoke during a fire is a driver of fynbos seed germination.
Table Mountain is an excellent example of lush fynbos growth.
Renosterveld
Renosterveld
The name Renosterveld is derived from “renoster” referring to the Black renoster historically in the Western Cape. Shrubs dominate Renosterveld from the Asteraceae (daisy) family and the lovely geophytic (bulbs) plant species and beautiful annuals. It occurs on relatively fertile soil, and Restios, Proteas and Ericas are mainly absent.
Like with fynbos, fire is also an essential part of Renosterveld and its conservation.
Overberg and Darling are known for their Renosterveld reserves.
Strandveld
Strandveld
The sandy soil that is nutrient-rich all along the drier west coast and wetter south coast is known as Strandveld. Plant growth has many succulent elements on the west coast and forest plant growth on the south coast. Proteas are absent.
Velddrif at the west coast is an excellent example of Strandveld.
Succulent Karoo
Succulent Karoo
Succulent karoo occupies low-lying land, mainly from Namaqualand to southern Namibia, covering about 7% of South Africa. The Winters have deficient rainfall and extreme summer heat. As a result, fog near the coast is common, and some plant species rely on it for survival. Soil is sandy and poor.
Low growing succulents like Crassula, Cotyledon, Euphorbia and Drosanthemum, with a wide variety of annuals, are common in the succulent karoo. These annuals are one of the reasons why Namaqualand is renowned for its spring wildflower displays.
South Africa is famous for the beauty of its native flowers, but many of these plants are declining or threatened. The general public needs to realise how necessary it is to preserve our wildflowers in their natural surroundings. The Cape Floristic Region is proudly South African and is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its rich and diverse flora.
The gardener who displays South African plants in his garden can pride himself on preserving his countries beauties for all to see.
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Not many people know that the beautiful fields of purple/pink flowers along our roadsides, in our gardens and on cultivated land is an invasive weed. Because of its beautiful flowers, they think it is harmless and beautiful. But it is not!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Echium plantagineum, commonly known as Patterson’s curse, is a deep-rooted biennial native to Europe, Northern Africa and Asia. It was initially introduced to South Africa as an ornamental plant, and it fell in love with our Mediterranean climate. This long flowering biennial likes dry, sunny sites with poor soil.
The plant starts as a flat rosette of leaves and will grow up to 1 metre tall. From October to April, purple, lavender, pink and even white flowers appear. It produces a terrifying amount of seed, and as soon as the winter rain starts, the seeds begin to germinate. Patterson’s curse has become naturalised and is capable of reproducing and spreading without the assistance of people. The seeds are primarily distributed by wind, and most seeds germinate in the first year, but the seed can survive for as long as five years.
This rapid spread of the weed in areas home to horses, sheep and cattle is a big problem for the owners of these animals. Patterson’s curse produces purrolizidine alkaloides, as a defence mechanism against insect herbivores (moths, weevils, gall wasps, etc.). When eaten by animals in large quantities, it can causes death due to liver damage. Because the alkaloids can be found in the nectar of the plants, the honey should be blended with other kinds of honey to dilute the toxins. They also poison the soil with the alkaloid preventing further growth by other plants except themselves.
The leaves and stems are covered with coarse, white hairs that can irritate the skin of humans and animals.
Echium plantagineum
Controlling Patterson’s curse:
According to Invasive Species of South Africa, Patterson’s curse is listed as a category one invader plant. Furthermore, according to the Conservation of Agriculture Resource Act of 1983, plants must be removed and destroyed immediately, and trading of the plant is prohibited.
Controlling the plant is very difficult as it flowers and seeds from October to April. The most effective way to control the weed is a combination of mechanical and chemical methods. However, both methods are costly and not always possible to implement. Small infestations can be carried out by hand and is best to remove before it sets seed. Remember to wear gloves and long sleeves and use a weeder tool like a handheld fork.
Patterson’s curse is a wolf in sheep’s clothing because of its beautiful flowers. It must be controlled and eradicated where possible. Please help us spread awareness!!
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Moss may look nice on rocks and under trees, but on your lawn, it means trouble. The Western Cape winter is tough on properties. The grey, wet days and almost no (or slow) grass growth are ideal conditions for moss to grow and thrive in.
What is Moss?
Moss is a mass of tiny plants. They have a shallow root system spread by spores and fill the spaces where the lawn is thin. Therefore, moss in your lawn is a good indicator that you have a deeper problem. However, the control of moss requires more than just the killing of existing moss. The best way to prevent moss from growing in your lawn is to correct the underlying reason the moss began growing in the first place.
Get out of the shade!
Poor drainage, shade, acidic soil, heavy traffic and lack of fertilizer are all reasons moss thrives on your lawn. Ridding lawn moss requires it first to remove the moss and, secondly, stop it from coming back.
Heat – the moss Killer!
The best time to kill moss is during late winter or early spring. It doesn’t die back in winter and also doesn’t release spores during cold weather. Take your rake and rake it off the ground with a little bit of muscle and elbow grease. It is best to rake in several directions to loosen the moss. First, discard the moss with your garbage – not on your compost heap! For larger areas, you may want to spray a moss killer. I don’t recommend using harsh chemical killers; it is not safe for your pets and kids. Instead, use two teaspoons of either baking soda or dishwashing liquid on 1 litre of water, and spray directly on the moss. This will keep it from developing further or returning after it dries up.
Good drainage is crucial!
Secondly, after removing the moss, start by correcting the area’s condition. Poor drainage can be rectified by aerating the soil using a garden fork or hand-operated spikers. Aerating the soil improves the flow of water, air and nutrients to the grassroots. Pay attention to areas where water is likely to gather. In areas with heavy traffic, also aerate the soil and divert traffic away for a week or two. If too much shade is the problem, thin the canopy under trees if you can, or plant or sow a shade loving grass. Also, remove dead leaves and other debris accumulating on your lawn surface. It prevents grass from receiving sunlight and moisture.
Healthy soil means a healthy lawn
Soil pH is essential to the health of plants and can also affect the nutrient uptake in plants. Lawn grass prefers a pH of 5 to 7. Moss prefers acidic soil. Use dolomitic lime to raise or “sweeten” the soil. Fertilize the lawn in winter with a fertilizer high in phosphate to encourage root development and make lawn grass more competitive and tackle growth. Re-seed bare patches on your lawn.
Having a healthy lawn without moss or weeds can give you a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction and provide a beautiful personal space for you and your family.
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I firmly believe that a garden is for pleasure, to present a pretty picture when looking out from the house, and to provide a space for its occupants to relax and be one with nature. This can be hard to achieve, as we all (probably) suffer from a lack of time to deal with weeding, staking or watering in hot, dry weather. The cost of gardening is also something that concerns most of us. However, there is something easy to do if we want interest and colour in the garden during the different seasons of the year, and this can be achieved by planting groundcovers.
What is a groundcover?
Groundcovers serve the same purpose in a garden as carpets do indoors. They are low growing plants with a spreading habit that provides a rapid and dense cover. These spreading plants add quick, attractive seasonal colour, provide a hiding place for tiny creatures, and are low on maintenance as they only need a trim after flowering.
A mulch of organic matter after flowering will keep plants healthy. Also, be on the lookout for slugs and snails as the very nature of the growth of groundcovers encourages slugs and snails to breed.
Value of groundcovers
∞ They are effective for covering the bare soil between newly planted trees and shrubs.
∞ They are essential in coastal gardens to bind sandy soil, especially during heavy rains and strong winds, preventing soil erosion. Groundcovers are also the best plants to plant on slopes. They help to slow water when it rains, enabling the soil to absorb more water.
∞ They cut down on maintenance by reducing weed re-growth.
∞ Increasing moisture retention in the root zone and help to keep the soil cool. Acting as a living mulch for plants in their vicinity.
∞ It can be planted between paving to soften the landscape and be more environmentally friendly.
∞ Shade-loving groundcovers are invaluable for ornamenting the ground under trees. Those with light variegated foliage lighten up dark shady areas.
∞ Groundcover can be planted in containers and hanging baskets.
How to choose a groundcover
When selecting plants for a groundcover, it is essential to consider the climate and the soil. Groundcover is planted to beautify the garden. Not for a season, but for as long as you wish to have them. Spending proper time on the soil preparation before planting will ensure healthy growth and reduce the time and money required for later maintenance. Remember to plant them in well-draining soil with compost added.
Choosing the correct ground cover for an area
The following lists have been compiled to assist gardeners in choosing the right groundcovers to suit their climatic conditions and introduce variety in form and colour from season to season.
Groundcovers for dry gardens in full sun:
Aptenia cordifolia
Arctotis species
Bulbine frutescens
Crassula species
Carpobrotus species
Delosperma species
Helichrysum cymosum
Osteospermum species
Gazania species
Portulacaria prostrata
Pelargonium species
Lampranthus species
Dymondia margaretae
Aptenia cordifolia
Groundcovers for coastal gardens:
Aptenia cordifolia
Arctotis species
Bulbine frutescens
Carpobrotus species
Crassula species
Drosanthemum species
Felicia species
Geranium incanum
Osteospermum species
Pelargonium species
Tetragonia decumbens
Gazania species
Portulacaria prostrata
Gazania species
Groundcovers for shady places:
Asparagus densifloris ‘Mazeppa’ and Asparagus ‘Meyersii’
Crassula multicava
Plectranthus species
Rhiocicssus tomentosa
Chlorophytum comosum and Chlorophytum comosum Variegated
Sutera cordata (Chaenostoma cordatum)
Crassula spathulata and Crassula pellucida
Crassula multicava
Groundcovers that are selected carefully for texture or colour will:
tie the garden together, giving it an established and well-maintained look
linking the bigger shrubs and trees together
accent focal points
fill gaps
provide unity
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Common name: Red Hot Poker, Torch Lily, African Flame flower, Devil’s poker
Kniphofia is herbaceous perennials that are freely grown in gardens, and the beautiful, showstopping flowers picked are excellent for putting in a vase. They are easy to grow plants and prefer full sun for the best blooms. Being virtually disease-free and drought tolerant, Kniphofia’s provide attractive vertical accents in any garden. In addition, they have a wide range of flowering times as there are winter flowering (Kniphofia praecox) and summer flowering (Kniphofia uvaria) species, adding eye-catching colour to any garden throughout the year.
Kniphofia – A sugarbird lover!
Kniphofias prefer well-draining soil enriched with compost. They are generally tough perennials, but poor drainage is one of the few things that will kill them. Water well after planting but once established, Kniphofia have modest water needs. Once a year, after flowering mulch with compost to promote blooms for the next flowering season.
Kniphofias are primarily used in mixed borders, water edges, mass planting or indigenous gardens. Their drought tolerance makes them suitable for use in rock gardens. They also tolerate wind well. They attract butterflies and bees and are a favourite of sunbirds and sugarbirds. Snails love to make a nest in the bases of the leaves, especially in wintertime.
Not a fan of the extreme cold!
The arching, tapering leaves are long and narrow. Rootstock is fibrous and forms a dense mat below the ground. Kniphofia plants should not be divided or transplanted more often than necessary because they take up to one year to settle down after being separated. Also, Kniphofias will not tolerate extreme cold.
The most beautiful flower for the garden
Kniphofias have tubular flowers arranged in a tapering spike near the top of a firm, erect stalk. The flowers commence opening at the spike base while the buds are still closed at the top. Remove spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Kniphofia praecox, which starts flowering in May into June and July, flower buds are scarlet, opening into yellow flowers. The leaves are yellowish-green and with smooth edges. Kniphofia uvaria flowers buds are orange and open into vivid yellow flowers on longer flower stalks than Kniphofia praecox. The dark green foliage has sharply serrated edges.
If you are looking for a stunning evergreen plant to add an accent to your sunny garden, you must definitely consider the indigenous Kniphofia.
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