Cooper’s Aloe: Afrikaans is Grasalwyn and in Zulu, Putumane
Aloe cooperii is a very hardy, stemless Aloe with long, arching, narrow yellowish-green leaves arranged in a fan shape. The smooth leaves of the Cooper’s Aloe are dotted with white on the outside (especially at the bottom of the leaves), and the edges have small white teeth. These graceful leaves distinguish this Aloe and make it easily recognisable. The leaves spring from one point in the ground, overlapping slightly at the base, placing one inside the other. Will grow up to plus-minus one metre.
Attractive enough for a vase?
Flower stalks appear from December to March. They grow to about the same height or slightly taller than the leaves, springing from the centre of the leaves. The Cooper’s Aloe has a large, loosely arranged flower spike that bears clear, peach to orange flowers with beautiful green tips. Two to three flower stalks grow up from each leaf cluster. The flowers are attractive flowers for your vase. The flowers are nectar-rich and attract nectar-feeding birds and insects such as Sunbirds, bees and butterflies to the garden.
The plant with multi-purposes
Both the flowers and leaves can be cooked and eaten and have a significant cultural and economic value to the Zulu people.
Cooper’s Aloe is evergreen and is hardy to frost and drought. Plant in full sun to semi-shade, compost-enriched, well-drained soil. Surprisingly, this Aloe will tolerate marshy ground – it occurs naturally throughout Kwazulu-Natal, Swaziland and into Mpumalanga. This plant offers year-round textural interest, a beautiful choice for grassland landscaping, mass planting or within a mixed border. They are great plants for small or large garden use—also, a practical and pretty container plant.
Cooper’s Aloe is a versatile plant and will add a touch of drama to any garden.
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Not many people know that the beautiful fields of purple/pink flowers along our roadsides, in our gardens and on cultivated land is an invasive weed. Because of its beautiful flowers, they think it is harmless and beautiful. But it is not!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Echium plantagineum, commonly known as Patterson’s curse, is a deep-rooted biennial native to Europe, Northern Africa and Asia. It was initially introduced to South Africa as an ornamental plant, and it fell in love with our Mediterranean climate. This long flowering biennial likes dry, sunny sites with poor soil.
The plant starts as a flat rosette of leaves and will grow up to 1 metre tall. From October to April, purple, lavender, pink and even white flowers appear. It produces a terrifying amount of seed, and as soon as the winter rain starts, the seeds begin to germinate. Patterson’s curse has become naturalised and is capable of reproducing and spreading without the assistance of people. The seeds are primarily distributed by wind, and most seeds germinate in the first year, but the seed can survive for as long as five years.
This rapid spread of the weed in areas home to horses, sheep and cattle is a big problem for the owners of these animals. Patterson’s curse produces purrolizidine alkaloides, as a defence mechanism against insect herbivores (moths, weevils, gall wasps, etc.). When eaten by animals in large quantities, it can causes death due to liver damage. Because the alkaloids can be found in the nectar of the plants, the honey should be blended with other kinds of honey to dilute the toxins. They also poison the soil with the alkaloid preventing further growth by other plants except themselves.
The leaves and stems are covered with coarse, white hairs that can irritate the skin of humans and animals.
Echium plantagineum
Controlling Patterson’s curse:
According to Invasive Species of South Africa, Patterson’s curse is listed as a category one invader plant. Furthermore, according to the Conservation of Agriculture Resource Act of 1983, plants must be removed and destroyed immediately, and trading of the plant is prohibited.
Controlling the plant is very difficult as it flowers and seeds from October to April. The most effective way to control the weed is a combination of mechanical and chemical methods. However, both methods are costly and not always possible to implement. Small infestations can be carried out by hand and is best to remove before it sets seed. Remember to wear gloves and long sleeves and use a weeder tool like a handheld fork.
Patterson’s curse is a wolf in sheep’s clothing because of its beautiful flowers. It must be controlled and eradicated where possible. Please help us spread awareness!!
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Moss may look nice on rocks and under trees, but on your lawn, it means trouble. The Western Cape winter is tough on properties. The grey, wet days and almost no (or slow) grass growth are ideal conditions for moss to grow and thrive in.
What is Moss?
Moss is a mass of tiny plants. They have a shallow root system spread by spores and fill the spaces where the lawn is thin. Therefore, moss in your lawn is a good indicator that you have a deeper problem. However, the control of moss requires more than just the killing of existing moss. The best way to prevent moss from growing in your lawn is to correct the underlying reason the moss began growing in the first place.
Get out of the shade!
Poor drainage, shade, acidic soil, heavy traffic and lack of fertilizer are all reasons moss thrives on your lawn. Ridding lawn moss requires it first to remove the moss and, secondly, stop it from coming back.
Heat – the moss Killer!
The best time to kill moss is during late winter or early spring. It doesn’t die back in winter and also doesn’t release spores during cold weather. Take your rake and rake it off the ground with a little bit of muscle and elbow grease. It is best to rake in several directions to loosen the moss. First, discard the moss with your garbage – not on your compost heap! For larger areas, you may want to spray a moss killer. I don’t recommend using harsh chemical killers; it is not safe for your pets and kids. Instead, use two teaspoons of either baking soda or dishwashing liquid on 1 litre of water, and spray directly on the moss. This will keep it from developing further or returning after it dries up.
Good drainage is crucial!
Secondly, after removing the moss, start by correcting the area’s condition. Poor drainage can be rectified by aerating the soil using a garden fork or hand-operated spikers. Aerating the soil improves the flow of water, air and nutrients to the grassroots. Pay attention to areas where water is likely to gather. In areas with heavy traffic, also aerate the soil and divert traffic away for a week or two. If too much shade is the problem, thin the canopy under trees if you can, or plant or sow a shade loving grass. Also, remove dead leaves and other debris accumulating on your lawn surface. It prevents grass from receiving sunlight and moisture.
Healthy soil means a healthy lawn
Soil pH is essential to the health of plants and can also affect the nutrient uptake in plants. Lawn grass prefers a pH of 5 to 7. Moss prefers acidic soil. Use dolomitic lime to raise or “sweeten” the soil. Fertilize the lawn in winter with a fertilizer high in phosphate to encourage root development and make lawn grass more competitive and tackle growth. Re-seed bare patches on your lawn.
Having a healthy lawn without moss or weeds can give you a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction and provide a beautiful personal space for you and your family.
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All species of Aloes are easy to grow and care for, and to raise an Aloe plant you only need sun and a little bit of water. But, unfortunately, the Aloe has a natural enemy that cannot be seen with the naked eye and sadly, the ugly trail of destruction is hard to miss. The Aloe Mite.
Aloe mite
This enemy is the eriohyid mite (Aceria aloinis) that goes by many different names like Aloe mite, Aloe cancer, Aloe wart, Aloe gall or Witch’s Broom. As the many names suggest, the effect of these mites on the plant is not pretty and causes tumour-like growths. Mites are arachnids, which makes them related to spiders, but this is where the resemblance stops. Spiders usually have 8 legs and are fast movers, but this mite only has 4 legs, is worm-like, and is slow. They inject a chemical into the plant that causes these cancerous growths that we call gall, wart or cancer.
Identification
Unfortunately, the only way to tell if a plant is infected is to see the abnormal tissue growth. The Aloe mites are attracted to rapidly growing tissues, and that is why the first sign of this mite is new inflorescence that emerges from the plants all crooked and bent. Abnormal, distorted growth tends to form more at the leaf centre of the leaf rosettes, makes a bubbly fringe on older leaves edges, and green-orange growths at the base of leaves.
Treatment
Killing the mites is easy, but the problem is getting to the mite underneath the cancerous growth where they are protected against pesticides. The Aloe mite infection is controlled by carving these galls off the Aloe with a sharp knife. The infected tissue must be immediately thrown in the trash (NOT on the compost heap) or burned. Cover the cuts with cinnamon as that will help heal the wound. Blue Death Powder can also be applied by painting it with a small brush onto the fresh wound. BUT please remember that this is toxic to humans and animals!!!! Keep on looking for any new deformities. Clean the knife between every cut with bleach as the mite can be spread from one leaf or plant to another. Also, clean your hands afterwards as it also can be spread by handling uninfected plants thereafter.
Aloe mites are also easily spread by wind. If the infestation is severe, dispose of the entire plant because it is a breeding ground.
Prevention
When buying new Aloe plants, always look for uninfected plants, or buy an Aloe that is naturally resistant to Aloe mite like Aloe suprafoliata. Check plants often for early signs of deformation, saving your plant and your garden. If you are an Aloe collector or have a rare and valuable specimen, visit your nursery for preventive miticide that has to be applied before infestation.
Treating Aloe mite can be labour intensive. You need to identify it early and do something about the cancerous growth. Remember, even if you don’t mind the growth on your Aloes it is best to remove it as it will spread to your other Aloes.
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Carissa macrocarpa grows naturally in the coastal forest and dunes from Eastern Cape to Kwazulu Natal, making this a tremendous coastal plant.
Need a pretty hedge? Plant the Carissa macrocarpa
It is an evergreen, ornamental shrub with handsome glossy leaves which is wind resistant. Although it usually forms a dense thorny shrub, it may also grow into a small tree, especially in Kwazulu Natal. If planted close together, it will create a thick, impenetrable hedge. It can be pruned into shape or as a clipped hedge.
Want to make some jam?
The glossy leaves are dark green and oval-shaped, and the stems have long thorns. Starry, sweetly scented white flowers appear in spring and summer followed by ornamental, tomato-coloured fruits rich in vitamin C. These are edible and may be made into jelly and jam.
No need to hide from the sun!
Carissa macrocarpa is relatively slow-growing if not planted in warmer, more humid areas. When pruned, white sap will appear on the wound. It prefers full sun but can tolerate light shade. It grows pretty quickly in good garden soil enriched with compost and needs regular watering in the summer in the winter rainfall area. An organic mulch once a year will keep plants healthy.
Perfect for low maintenance all year round.
It is a good container plant and a good landscaping plant for low maintenance coastal gardens, hedges, or mass planting. It is, however frost tender, but attracts birds, bees and butterflies to the garden.
Carissa macrocarpa “Green Carpet” is the dwarf Num-num that grows up to 30 centimetres in height and spread evenly, making it an excellent groundcover with its smaller leaves, flowers and fruit.
Carissa species are one of South Africas tough, hardy plants that is worthwhile to plant.
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