Not many people know that the beautiful fields of purple/pink flowers along our roadsides, in our gardens and on cultivated land is an invasive weed. Because of its beautiful flowers, they think it is harmless and beautiful. But it is not!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Echium plantagineum, commonly known as Patterson’s curse, is a deep-rooted biennial native to Europe, Northern Africa and Asia. It was initially introduced to South Africa as an ornamental plant, and it fell in love with our Mediterranean climate. This long flowering biennial likes dry, sunny sites with poor soil.
The plant starts as a flat rosette of leaves and will grow up to 1 metre tall. From October to April, purple, lavender, pink and even white flowers appear. It produces a terrifying amount of seed, and as soon as the winter rain starts, the seeds begin to germinate. Patterson’s curse has become naturalised and is capable of reproducing and spreading without the assistance of people. The seeds are primarily distributed by wind, and most seeds germinate in the first year, but the seed can survive for as long as five years.
This rapid spread of the weed in areas home to horses, sheep and cattle is a big problem for the owners of these animals. Patterson’s curse produces purrolizidine alkaloides, as a defence mechanism against insect herbivores (moths, weevils, gall wasps, etc.). When eaten by animals in large quantities, it can causes death due to liver damage. Because the alkaloids can be found in the nectar of the plants, the honey should be blended with other kinds of honey to dilute the toxins. They also poison the soil with the alkaloid preventing further growth by other plants except themselves.
The leaves and stems are covered with coarse, white hairs that can irritate the skin of humans and animals.
Echium plantagineum
Controlling Patterson’s curse:
According to Invasive Species of South Africa, Patterson’s curse is listed as a category one invader plant. Furthermore, according to the Conservation of Agriculture Resource Act of 1983, plants must be removed and destroyed immediately, and trading of the plant is prohibited.
Controlling the plant is very difficult as it flowers and seeds from October to April. The most effective way to control the weed is a combination of mechanical and chemical methods. However, both methods are costly and not always possible to implement. Small infestations can be carried out by hand and is best to remove before it sets seed. Remember to wear gloves and long sleeves and use a weeder tool like a handheld fork.
Patterson’s curse is a wolf in sheep’s clothing because of its beautiful flowers. It must be controlled and eradicated where possible. Please help us spread awareness!!
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I firmly believe that a garden is for pleasure, to present a pretty picture when looking out from the house, and to provide a space for its occupants to relax and be one with nature. This can be hard to achieve, as we all (probably) suffer from a lack of time to deal with weeding, staking or watering in hot, dry weather. The cost of gardening is also something that concerns most of us. However, there is something easy to do if we want interest and colour in the garden during the different seasons of the year, and this can be achieved by planting groundcovers.
What is a groundcover?
Groundcovers serve the same purpose in a garden as carpets do indoors. They are low growing plants with a spreading habit that provides a rapid and dense cover. These spreading plants add quick, attractive seasonal colour, provide a hiding place for tiny creatures, and are low on maintenance as they only need a trim after flowering.
A mulch of organic matter after flowering will keep plants healthy. Also, be on the lookout for slugs and snails as the very nature of the growth of groundcovers encourages slugs and snails to breed.
Value of groundcovers
∞ They are effective for covering the bare soil between newly planted trees and shrubs.
∞ They are essential in coastal gardens to bind sandy soil, especially during heavy rains and strong winds, preventing soil erosion. Groundcovers are also the best plants to plant on slopes. They help to slow water when it rains, enabling the soil to absorb more water.
∞ They cut down on maintenance by reducing weed re-growth.
∞ Increasing moisture retention in the root zone and help to keep the soil cool. Acting as a living mulch for plants in their vicinity.
∞ It can be planted between paving to soften the landscape and be more environmentally friendly.
∞ Shade-loving groundcovers are invaluable for ornamenting the ground under trees. Those with light variegated foliage lighten up dark shady areas.
∞ Groundcover can be planted in containers and hanging baskets.
How to choose a groundcover
When selecting plants for a groundcover, it is essential to consider the climate and the soil. Groundcover is planted to beautify the garden. Not for a season, but for as long as you wish to have them. Spending proper time on the soil preparation before planting will ensure healthy growth and reduce the time and money required for later maintenance. Remember to plant them in well-draining soil with compost added.
Choosing the correct ground cover for an area
The following lists have been compiled to assist gardeners in choosing the right groundcovers to suit their climatic conditions and introduce variety in form and colour from season to season.
Groundcovers for dry gardens in full sun:
Aptenia cordifolia
Arctotis species
Bulbine frutescens
Crassula species
Carpobrotus species
Delosperma species
Helichrysum cymosum
Osteospermum species
Gazania species
Portulacaria prostrata
Pelargonium species
Lampranthus species
Dymondia margaretae
Aptenia cordifolia
Groundcovers for coastal gardens:
Aptenia cordifolia
Arctotis species
Bulbine frutescens
Carpobrotus species
Crassula species
Drosanthemum species
Felicia species
Geranium incanum
Osteospermum species
Pelargonium species
Tetragonia decumbens
Gazania species
Portulacaria prostrata
Gazania species
Groundcovers for shady places:
Asparagus densifloris ‘Mazeppa’ and Asparagus ‘Meyersii’
Crassula multicava
Plectranthus species
Rhiocicssus tomentosa
Chlorophytum comosum and Chlorophytum comosum Variegated
Sutera cordata (Chaenostoma cordatum)
Crassula spathulata and Crassula pellucida
Crassula multicava
Groundcovers that are selected carefully for texture or colour will:
tie the garden together, giving it an established and well-maintained look
linking the bigger shrubs and trees together
accent focal points
fill gaps
provide unity
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Autumn in your garden is like a spring in your step!
Autumn colours are one of nature’s marvels. Yellow and orange are the colours of sunshine and life, full of vibrance, highlighting the beginning of a new season. And red, well red is eye-catching and courageous, making Autumn brilliant, exciting and cheerful.
With this colourful time in your garden come days that are cooling down, softer sunlight and unpredictable weather.
It is important to remember that your gardening should not stop in the autumn months. Autumn is the time to prepare your garden for winter and prepping it for the following spring.
Start a compost heap this Autumn
Compost is organic gold, and with all the colourful leaves, grass clippings, dead flowers and plants, there will be enough organic matter to start with. (Remember not to throw weeds or diseased plants on your compost heap).
Divide perennials
Autumn is the best time to divide overgrown, summer-flowering perennials like wild garlic, Agapanthus, Dietes and daylilies so new roots can get a chance to establish themselves before the winter really starts. Remember to prepare soil in advance with compost and put some bone meal (good root starter) in each hole, and water well.
Compost
By giving a layer of compost in the Autumn, you ensure that plants have all the nutrients they need for winter. Compost will also help to aerate the soil; it will improve drainage and encourage earthworms and micro-organisms in your garden.
Pruning and Watering
Cut back all summer flowering perennials like Salvia, lavender bushes, Fuchsias and daisy bushes. Cut back all dead growth, twigs and branches.
Remember to set irrigation in your garden on less watering and reduce the amount of water you give to your house plants.
Lawn care
Keep lawn weed-free and feed with a phosphorous rich fertilizer to promote a healthy root system before the winter weather arrives. Remove fallen leaves from your lawn regularly as they deprive the lawn of light, causing it to die off and create brown patches.
Planting for spring
Seedlings and bulbs can be planted in early Autumn. Some bulbs like Watsonia’s and Chasmanthe can be planted as early as March. If it is still too hot in your area to plant spring bulbs, buy them while they are available and keep them in a cool, dry place. New plantings will establish good root growth before slowing down in winter.
Check for the unwelcome guest in your garden
Watch out for weeds that will germinate after the first winter rains and with the cooler weather. Snails, caterpillars and aphids love the cooler nights and warm days. Keep a lookout for them, spray them off your plants with water, or ask at your local nursery for a recommended organic spray.
The best part is that next spring, your efforts will be rewarded with a garden that comes alive and will look better than ever!
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The common thing to do with banana peels is to throw them in the trash, however, there are miraculous uses for these yellow fellows. Here are a few tips on how you can use banana peels naturally in an unusual way in and around your garden.
To grow strong and lush plants, you need three things:
The correct amount of sun(light) – that is sun for the sun-loving plants or shade for the shade-loving plants;
Water;
Soil that has sufficient nutrients.
Plants in containers need even more feeding because the nutrients wash out every time you water the plants.
A banana can help you with that!
Banana peels are a natural fertilizer and a natural pest repellent in the garden. If you compost, you already toss your peels into the compost pile, but have you ever made a banana tea? Using banana peel tea, you create an all-natural organic fertilizer filled with potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen, all well-needed nutrients for strengthening your plants and helping them resist pests and diseases.
But how do I make banana peel tea?
Take a jar (2 litre size), chop your banana peels into pieces, put them in the jar, and then fill with water. Allow the jar to sit for at least 2 to 3 days and use the water for your container plants.
Do not throw away the soaked peels; simply throw them around your plants in your garden and work it in directly into the soil. If you don’t like it in your garden, just throw it back on the compost pile.
Plant a banana peel
When you plant your newly-bought plants in your garden or plant up a new container, pop a banana peel in along with your plants in your garden. This will ensure a direct boost to your plants by improving the soil’s quality and will also attract beneficial worms and microbes to your soil.
Pest control
Working the peels into your soil will help to deter green aphids naturally. You can also spray the banana peel tea directly onto your plants to help repel aphids, and your plants will also absorb the minerals in the tea through their leaves. Air plants primarily benefit from banana peel spray for nutrients.
Hopefully, with these practical tips for using banana peels, you will change how you feel about banana peels. Next time you eat a banana, remember it is a healthy snack for you and your plants.
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Slugs and snails are a common annoyance for any gardener. They are sneaky eaters, and you almost never see them before they have eaten away your precious plants. They are the slimiest pest a succulent gardener might encounter – literally and figuratively! During winter, when it is wet and cold in the Western Cape, they have a ball of a time chomping away on your plants.
Both slugs and snails thrive in cool, moist conditions and are mainly active during the nighttime. They like to lay their eggs in the darkest of corners in the soil under plants. And, they can lay up to 100 eggs each time – not only once a year but several times a year. After the eggs are laid, they develop and hatch. And, in perfect conditions, snails can live for a few years in your garden.
Spotting slugs and snails infestations on your plants are relatively easy because they usually are the first pests active in early spring. Because they prefer the cooler months, they get active as early as the end of winter before other pests are active. Of course, the unmistakable snail trail is an immediate giveaway. Together with the scalloped edges on plants and leaves where they have recently been eating. On succulents like your Cotyledon orbiculate, they like to eat the leaves from the upper side. This leaves big holes in the fleshy leaves. And, all this happens overnight …
Spotting Slugs and Snails
But how do you get rid of this slimy pest? Being a prolific pest, you probably won’t be able to clear your garden from slugs and snails completely. But you can try a few methods to help prevent them from damaging your succulents.
Eggshells
This is the most environmentally-friendly way to keep slugs and snails at bay. Crushing up eggshells into small pieces and scattering them around the base of your plants or even on the plant itself, acts as a deterrent. Slugs and snails have delicate skin and the sharp and piercing edges of the eggshells are unpleasant for them, meaning they will keep clear of the succulents with eggshells around. This method is poison-free and safe to use around pets and kids. Eggshells are also entirely biodegradable, and a source of calcium for soil.
Beer traps
Beer traps are easy and straightforward to maintain. Simply take a small bowl or cup and bury it to the rim in an infested area and fill it to about halfway with fresh beer. Slugs and snails are both attracted by the smell of the yeast in the beer and will venture in, drowning when they reach the beer. Keep on topping up the beer every few days and remove dead slugs and snails.
Poison bait
If you want to wipe out the slugs and snails and a deterrent is not enough, there are several options available in several different forms – pellets, meal, and in liquid. Pellets and meal bait can be scattered around plants or placed in piles in a particular infested area, like against walls and under thick plant growth. This poisonous bait needs to be consumed by the slugs and snails to be effective.
Slugs and Snails don’t love poison, neither do kids and pets
Use with caution if you have small children or pets as this is poisonous!!!! And, is also deadly for wildlife. If you have to go this way, please avoid buying bait, meal or liquid bait with metaldehyde as an active ingredient, but go for the safer, iron phosphate bait instead.
Alternative methods
Handpicking is also an option but not for the squeamish among us. Using rubber gloves or tongs to pluck and dispose of the pests at night gets them out of your garden.
Inviting natural predators of slugs and snails to your garden, such as frogs and toads, is also an option. Frogs and toads are able to eat a significant number of slugs and snails and may help keep the numbers of other problem insects, like mosquitos, down. Having a water feature in your garden will attract frogs and toads. Slugs and snails look harmless, but to your plants, they are not, and hopefully, you’ll find one of these methods an effective way to keep slugs and snails away from your beautiful succulents.
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